Baba Nyonya – Baba Nyonya Peranakans

Kueh Chang – My Grandmother’s Tips

Making Kueh Chang each year reveals a tip that I am gradually remembering from the many years of watching my grandmother make it as I would sit there absorbing all her nuanced moves without me even trying it since I was not capable as a mere toddler. Also, my grandmother, like many Nyonyas like her, did things instinctively without providing explanations. This year, many more memories came back that guided me.

the initial folding on the cone is made at the 1/3 way point on the leaf side. I initially started at the 1/2 way point but there was not enough leaf flap to create a secure seal. Once I adjusted it, all was fine. Also, use long leaves and not shorter ones.
when adding the first bit of rice at the bottom of the cone, a deep indentation has to be made in it so as to allow an even distribution of meat stuffing in the corner, or, if not, the bite there will be pure rice which is not desired.
when adding the stuffing, it is added generously to create a mound, not flat, and away from the side leaves. This ensures that the dumpling has the right rice-to-filling ratio, and the dark stuffing would not be showing on the exterior when cooked.
when adding the rice to the filling, it is added around the filling first. This ensures that the filling is protected by the surrounding rice, and the flavors are not diluted in the boiling process. Also, make sure any rice clumps are broken up before adding to the leaves.
before closing the dumpling, the backside of rice touching the leaf flap is pressed down to lower it slightly. I can’t explain why my grandmother did this.
after folding and closing with the leaf flap, the excess leaf tip is turned towards the side where the initial cone makes a small flap located at the bottom of the cone running up on one side. This way, when tying the dumpling, the wrapping string will wrap both the cone flap and excess leaf flap at the same time to produce a secure package.
when wrapping the string a couple of times around the chang, pass the loose end on the side closer to the cone top tip to ensure that the wrapping stays in place and doesn’t slip down, which will only create a loosely wrapped dumpling.
the traditional seagrass string is the best as if you tie it too tight or hard, it will snap. It allows the correct tension as well as a bit of give for expansion when boiling. Using yarn or plastic string only leads to tying too tight or too much tension, creating a “tali pinggang” effect in the final product.
the excess leaf flap and string have to be cut off for a prettier bundle.
when boiling, at midpoint, the bottom ones have to come to the top. Extra boiling water is used to top it off when the water level becomes lower than the top chang.

With so many nuances, steps, and honed skill needed to create a food product, I think the art of chang making needs to be submitted for preservation as a cultural intangible.

Sri Kaya/Coconut Milk Jam – 30 minute Recipe

Finally, I have solved a decades-long dilemma – making Sri Kaya/Coconut Cream Jam in around 30 minutes. Despite my penchant for this irresistible Southeast Asian staple (enjoyed in Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia and Thailand), I shied from making it the traditional way (recipe found in my first book, The Baba Nyonya Peranakans) as it required the laborious process of stirring the custard mixture in a double boiler for around 2 hours. As a result, this highly-favored spread was prepared by me sadly only once a year.

Recently, I was given a batch by a Malaysian friend living down the road, and it got me thinking why I did not put in the effort into recapturing the flavors that were infused in my grandmother’s version, which I highly favored and have wafted through my day and night dreams of this distant longing. As my Mamah prepared this, I was always the eager very young assistant watching the double boiler on a fire fueled by dried coconut husk smoldering in a shallow pit. Watching her was a masterclass of her “agak-agak” skills, using only her well-honed senses to produce the perfect result. One slip in judgement or fire temperature would spell disaster resulting in sweet scrambled eggs, which I produced a number of times when I started testing her recipe.

Within this large conundrum of this deceivingly simple recipe were many challenges in order to produce a very close version to my grandmother’s. First was the time and labor issue – most people these days are put off by long cooking times and the constant vigilance. Then was the challenge of getting the full pandan flavor within a short period of time without resorting to artificial pandan paste, which carry an undesirable taste and color. Another was how to get the pandan flavor within the short process without it leaving a grassy note. To further shorten the time, I have cut the original recipe down into a quarter, which means a shorter time to cook and set the mixture.

Even though the quantity is a fourth of the original recipe, this method ensures that you have a fresh batch that can be made more often and within 30 minutes. This I much prefer rather than not having any due to dreading its time and labor. I hope you enjoy the recipe and be inspired to make this Nyonya classic spread often and bring it back to your dining room.

Ingredients:

1 pandan leaf, fresh or frozen

¼ cup/ 60 ml coconut milk, canned (thick kind)–do not stir or shake it, or 1st pressing from freshly grated coconut

13 grams + 75 grams granulated white sugar, divided

3 large eggs

Equipment:

Microwave/Microwavable plate

Mortar and Pestle

Small saucepan

Medium saucepan

Medium pot

Fine sieve

Straight-sided spatula, preferably silicon type

Microwave pandan leaf: If frozen, wash pandan leaf until defrosted.

Place it on a microwaveable plate. Microwave it on high for 30 secs for frozen, or 1 minute or more for fresh leaf until the leaf is wilted.

Crush leaf: Using a mortar and pestle, crush the leaf until the fibers are separated [or chop leaf with the coconut milk in a small food processor]. Remove and place it into the small saucepan.

Cook leaf: Scoop the top coconut cream from the can (or fresh 1st pressing) into the saucepan with the leaf. On a small-sized flame on medium heat, bring it to a simmer while using the back of the tablespoon to press the pandan leaf against the sides. Let it only simmer for not more than 1 minute. Turn flame off, cover, and leave it to cool.

Caramelize sugar: Add the 13 grams sugar into the medium saucepan, and swirl to make sure it is evenly spread out. Place the saucepan on a medium-sized flame on medium heat. Quickly fill up the other medium pot with water until ¼ filled, and place the pot next to the caramel saucepan. Watch the caramelization carefully. You want it to go a blonde or hay color but not past this stage. When the desired color is reached, immediately place the saucepan into the pot of water to stop the cooking. Leave it to cool.

Mix sugar and eggs: In a bowl, add 75 grams of sugar. Break only 2 eggs and add to the sugar. With the 3rd egg, break it and add the whole yolk and only half the egg white. Mix with a fork until the sugar is well incorporated. Set aside.

Sieve coconut cream and egg mixture: Into the caramel saucepan, use the sieve and filter the coconut cream while pressing the pandan leaf with a tablespoon – discard the leaf when done and rinse the sieve. Filter the egg mixture into the saucepan – stir inside the sieve with a spoon as well as scrape the bottom of the sieve. Discard any unfiltered egg.

Cook mixture: Make sure enough water comes up the outer sides of the inner saucepan to reach the level of the inside mixture – pour off excess water so the saucepan is stable, or add more water if not enough (you may use a double boiler instead of this). Place the setup on a medium-sized flame on high heat. Using the spatula, scrape the bottom and sides of the mixture pot constantly. Watch the heated water carefully, and when it starts to produce bubbles to indicate boiling, immediately turn down the flame so that barely any bubbles rise.

Continue to cook until the mixture is quite thick but not scrambled – around 10 minutes or more. The final stage is indicated by when you lift up a large amount of the mixture with the spatula, the mixture drips in blobs with a space of 1 to 3-second interval in between, depending on how thick you want it. Or the mixture is heated up to 77C or 170F. When ready, immediately remove the saucepan from the hot water. Pour cooked mixture into a bowl or a glass container (sterilized in boiling water) to cool down. When cooled down, cover and refrigerate immediately – do not cover before cooling as any condensation formed will spoil it.

Your Input is Needed!

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Interview on the state of The Baba Nyonya Peranakan Culture.

I was recently interviewed by Universiti Malaya on the state of the Baba Nyonya Peranakan culture, and I shared my thoughts on its current state, the challenges, and what it could take to revive the culture.

I don’t claim to be an expert on the culture, but I shared my thoughts from years of research and writing about it.

Please watch this 2-part interview and feel free to discuss what was said. Kamsiah.

Part 1: Click
Part 2: Click

LIMITED SALE – 10%

MY FIRST HARDCOVER BOOK ON THE BABA NYONYA PERANAKAN CULTURE WITH 32 NYONYA RECIPES IS NOW AVAILABLE FOR USD $35 (ORIGINAL PRICE $39) WITH FREE SHIPPING TO UNITED KINGDOM, UNITED STATES ($39), AND MELBOURNE REGION, AUSTRALIA. ADDITIONAL SHIPPING CHARGE FOR OUTSIDE THE ABOVE AREAS (S.E. ASIA INCLUDED).

It documents the History of the Baba Nyonya Peranakans and details the important Cultural Traditions and Celebrations, as I share my family stories growing up in such household.

Each chapter showcases a Nyonya recipe (Poh Piah, Chap Chai, Tauhu Sumpat, Sambal Nenas Timun, Kobis Masak Lemak Puteh, Pongteh, Ayam Temprah, Asam Fish, Ikan Sambal, Udang Lemak Masak Nenas, Top Hats, Buah Keluak, Achar Chili, Itek Tim, Laksa, Mee Siam, Sri Kaya, Kueh Chang Nyonya, Kueh Ee, Pineapple Tarts, Bi Tai Bak, Kueh Angku, Kueh Bakul Goreng, Bubur Pulut Hitam, Tapeh Pulut, Bubur Cha Cha, and many more!) that my grandmothers were known for.

This beautiful book will make a great coffee table display and read, as well as serve as a document of our precious culture for many future generations.

ORDER FORM (The Baba Nyonya Peranakans Book only – hardcover)

ORDER FORM (The Baba Nyonya Peranakans Book only – hardcover)

TPAS Zoom Cooking Demonstration

More than a week ago, I gave a cooking demonstration on Zoom of two classic Nyonya dishes, Udang Lemak Masak Nenas and Sambal Nenas Timun (photos of the finished dishes below). I am including the whole demonstration for you to watch how to cook these wonderful dishes, and also for you to get to know me as a cook. Enjoy! (Recipes from The Baba Nyonya Peranakans book)

The hardcopy and e-book of The Baba Nyonya Peranakans book (1st image) and Edible Memories e-cookbook (2nd image) are available – more information on the Homepage.

Kueh Chang Nyonya – Video of Bowl Technique

I have recently created a video of make Kueh Change using a bowl method. Please check it out for a simpler way to making this much-loved dumpling that still retains the flavors and aroma. Kamsiah! Recipe from The Baba Nyonya Peranakans book.

The hardcopy and e-book of The Baba Nyonya Peranakans book (1st image) and Edible Memories e-cookbook (2nd image) are available – more information on the Homepage.

Sup Lada Tauhu

Tasting this soup always brings me back to my childhood when our family would make day trips to Bukit Rambai, Melaka, to visit our relatives that resided in the village that my father’s family grew up in. After around an hour’s drive on the superfast highway to Alor Gajah, my father would take a backroad that offered its passengers a more scenic and leisurely ride to my Aunt Nancy’s (Makkoh) house. I would always marvel at the red oxide soil that exuded a slight metallic smell in the air. And on top of the martian-like top soil, we could see small patches of pepper vines growing on bamboo stilts that would sometimes be weighed down by batches of green peppercorns. It must be sheer ingenuity and necessity that these spicy beads were incorporated as the prominent element in this quick yet full-flavored soup.

Tofu is a rather bland ingredient that is featured in this soup. However, in this recipe we see how the Peranakans have taken this Chinese staple in another direction that is typically Nyonya in its approach. Instead of a mild-flavored soup, like the rather similar Hokkien version, here we have a bold and full-flavored backdrop so that the tofu can act as a counterpart with its smooth and bland qualities. The strong flavors in the soup come from the use of garlic, shallots, Belacan (shrimp paste), dried salted fish, white peppercorns, and the garnishing of young Chinese celery and spring onion add strong herbal flavors.

In making this recipe, I prefer the traditional way of pounding the shallots and garlic in the mortar and pestle in order to extract more flavors into the soup, just like how my grandmothers would. Make sure you get the medium-firm or medium-soft tofu that is fresh. Also, do not use the salted fish product called Bacalao, but instead look for salted Ikan Kurau bones, or even dried Chinese Croaker will do. You may find young Chinese celery in most Asian Markets as its flavor is more subtle than regular celery.

My father would relish his favorite soup with some spicy and tangy samban belacan condiment on the pieces of Tofu and shrimp. I am sure you will enjoy this rather complex, spicy, and soul-satisfying Nyonya soup.

Recipe from Edible Memories e-cookbook

Serves 4

Preparation Time: 10 minutes

Cooking Time: 40 minutes stovetop; 20 minutes pressure cooker

1 teaspoon white peppercorns, whole

1 clove garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

5 small or 50 grams shallots, peeled and roughly chopped

1 inch (2.5 cm) Belacan/Shrimp Paste (1 teaspoon powder or ½ tsp paste)

2 tablespoons vegetable oil

4½ cups water

2 – 3 pieces dried salted fish, preferably bones only (around 40 gms/1.5 oz) – substitute: 10 grams dried shrimp

½ teaspoon salt

200 grams/7 oz medium-firm or medium-soft tofu, cut into bite-size pieces

100 grams/3.5 oz small shrimp, shelled (or medium size shrimp, cut into ½-inch pieces)

2 stalks Chinese celery (Cantonese: kahn choy) or Celery leaves, roughly chopped

2 stalks spring onion, chopped finely

White pepper, ground

Crush the white peppercorns in a mortar until there are still some small bits, not too fine. Remove and reserve.

In the mortar, crush the garlic, shallots, and Belacan together into a fine paste. Remove and reserve.

In a pot on medium heat, add the oil, and fry the processed paste until aromatic (around 4 minutes) – make sure not to brown the paste too much. Add the water, white peppercorns, and salted fish bones (or dried shrimp). Cover, bring to boil, and reduce the flame to simmer fairly gently for 30 minutes (10 minutes in a pressure cooker).

Meanwhile, prepare the tofu, shrimp, Chinese celery, and green onions according to the ingredient list.

After the soup has simmered for 30 minutes, and add ½ teaspoon salt or to taste. Raise the flame to medium, add the tofu and fresh shrimp, and cook until the shrimp is just cooked (1 to 2 minutes) — do not use the pressure cooker mode but instead with the saute mode and the cover open.

Add the Chinese celery and turn flame off.

To serve, pour soup into a large bowl, and garnish it with spring onions and a pinch of white pepper.

Serve with sambal belacan (recipe) on the side.

The hardcopy and e-book of The Baba Nyonya Peranakans book (1st image) and Edible Memories e-cookbook (2nd image) are available – more information on the Homepage.

Terung Chili

Here, we see the Malay influence in the pairing of this mild vegetable with a spice paste that consists of fresh and dried chili peppers, shallots, garlic, and the ubiquitous pungent Belacan (shrimp paste). The use of the latter ingredient along with dried shrimp takes this dish to another level with a huge amount of umami savoriness added to this bland vegetable. However, the treatment of the eggplant is very Chinese in which it is not overcooked, and the pieces maintain their integrity while being infused with spiciness and flavor. Invariably, I always looked forward to my grandmother making this wonderful dish that did not need to convince her grandchildren to enjoy this vegetable due to the dish’s flavors.

When buying eggplant, choose the dark ones with a firm flesh; try to find the long Asian variety and not the bulbous Western one, which can have bitterness to it. Make sure to add only increments of ¼ cup of water when cooking so that the eggplant is steamed and not boiled, hence retaining its shape and texture. Once you get to taste this flavor-packed dish, you will understand why it was my family’s preferred way of eating eggplant, a preference that carries on to this day.

Recipe from Edible Memories e-cookbook

Serves 4

Preparation time: 15 minutes

Cooking time: 15 minutes

5 dried chili boh or Kashmiri peppers, or chile puya, stemmed, seeded & soaked (or 1 tablespoon dried chili paste)

2 tablespoons dried shrimp, soaked in water for 10 minutes and drained

3 medium/2 large Asian eggplants, stem removed, halved lengthwise & cut diagonally into 2-inch (5 cm) wide pieces (400 gm)

4 – 5 Finger Hot red chili peppers, stemmed and seeded (or 2 tablespoons paste)

5 small/50 grams shallots, peeled and roughly chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and roughly chopped

1 inch (2½ cm) Belacan/shrimp paste (½ teaspoon paste)

¾ cup water

½ teaspoon sugar

½ teaspoon salt

Soak the dried chili boh peppers in hot water. Do the same for the dried shrimp in another bowl.

Meanwhile, prep the eggplant, red chili peppers, shallots, and garlic.

In a food processor, add the drained dried shrimp and chop until fine. Remove and reserve.

To the processor, add the drained dried red chili peppers and process until fine. Then add the red chilies, shallots, garlic, and Belacan, and process into a very smooth mixture. Remove and reserve.

In a pan on medium-high flame, add 4 tablespoons oil. Fry the processed mixture and dried shrimp for 3 minutes or until aromatic.

Add the eggplant and mix for around 1 minute. Add only ¼ cup water, ½ teaspoon sugar and ½ teaspoon salt. Mix well, cover, and lower heat to medium. Cook for 8 to 10 minutes by stirring occasionally and adding an additional ¼ cup water each time the sauce dries up, until eggplant is fully cooked but not too soft.

When the eggplant is cooked, the sauce should have very little liquid left but not completely dry. Taste and adjust seasoning. Serve immediately.

The hardcopy and e-book of The Baba Nyonya Peranakans book (1st image) and Edible Memories e-cookbook (2nd image) are available – more information on the Homepage.

Udang Asam Pedas

Serves 4

Preparation time: 30 minutes

Cooking time: 5 minutes

Usually, the word “asam” denotes the use of tamarind in Nyonya cooking as found in many of its dishes. Here, however, we have a dish that defies the use of that local ingredient. But the dish’s sour element comes from the different sauces of tomato ketchup, sweet chili sauce, and white vinegar, seasonings borrowed from English colonial times.

In addition the above sauce ingredients, this relatively easy dish packs a lot of flavor from the ginger root, garlic, oyster sauce, white pepper, and dark soy sauce, all contributing to a complex sauce that will make you want to savor every drop coating the shrimp shell before peeling it. In addition, the young celery leaves and spring onions bring in more herbal aromatics and texture to the dish. To avoid overcooking the shrimp, mix all the sauce ingredients in a bowl, and pour it into the pan once the shrimp is no more pink on the outside. If you cannot find young celery, you can substitute it with celery leaves or cilantro that are chopped fine.

After cooking this, don’t be surprised to find yourself licking every drop of this fantastic sauce.

Recipe from Edible Memories e-cookbook

400 gm medium to large shrimp, heads off, with shells on

Vegetable oil

4 cloves garlic, peeled & cut into thin long wide slivers

2 inches (5 cm) ginger root, peeled & cut into thin wide slices

2 Finger Hot red chili pepper, stems and seeds removed & sliced fine

Sauce ingredients:

2 tablespoons tomato ketchup

2 tablespoons sweet chili sauce

2 tablespoons oyster sauce

¼ teaspoon white pepper

½ teaspoon dark soy sauce

½ teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon sugar

1 tablespoon rice or white vinegar

1-2 stalk young celery leaves (Cantonese: kahn choy), sliced 1-inch (2 ½ cm) long

1-2 stalk spring onion, cut 1-inch (2½ cm) long

If shrimps are not deveined, follow these steps:

Holding the shrimp in one hand, hold a small serrated knife in the other hand, and start at the top of the first shell after the head. Cut into the shell and into the flesh all the way until before the last segment before the tail, deep enough to expose the vein – do not go deeper than the vein. Remove the vein and dip it with the fingers in a bowl of water to release it.

In a wok or pan on medium-high heat, add 4 tablespoons oil, and fry garlic, ginger and chili for 1 minute or less until aromatic and slightly golden brown. Add the shrimp, and stir them for 1 minute or until they appear just cooked on the exterior. When cooked, lower flame to medium-low.

In a bowl, mix the ketchup, chili sauce, oyster sauce, white pepper, dark soy sauce, ½ teaspoon salt, 1 teaspoon sugar, and 1 tablespoon vinegar. Add sauce to pan. Bring sauce to a simmer and let it reduce until thick. Taste and adjust seasoning. Stir in green onion and celery leaves for 1 minute. Serve immediately.

The hardcopy and e-book of The Baba Nyonya Peranakans book (1st image) and Edible Memories e-cookbook (2nd image) are available – more information on the Homepage.